The classic man’s suit has something important in common with its casual equivalent – the Levi jeans and shirt / t-shirt combo. The reason they have been popular for so many decades is that they both camouflage any figure problems men may have*.
* Men don’t have the same issues as women of course, but nevertheless basic body proportions vary, length of torso vs length of legs etc., wide hips, skinny legs / arms (you can see how the twin outfits of men’s suits / classic jeans / shirt perfectly do the job of disguising any problems)
Men, wisely or instinctively have recognised for years that they look better in these classics. However, while still attractive and readily available staples, they can be a tad predictable and men might feel the need for a change now and again too!
The Recent Past – Teddy Boys and drainpipes, flares & flowers.
There have been some forays into various options over the years, sometimes interesting, sometimes disastrous.
There was the ‘Peacock Revolution’ in London in the 1960’s – brightly coloured suits with flared trousers replaced the traditional dark ones. Cravats and slim fitting floral shirts made an appearance, often worn with high waisted flared trousers or jeans and platform soled shoes which enhanced the tall lean look.
These were a welcome change after the post war uniformity of the 40’s & 50’s, which was broken only by the Teddy Boys with their Edwardian style frockcoats, drainpipe trousers and crêpe soled shoes (brothel creepers). The drainpipes regained their popularity when they were adopted by punk culture. But on the whole, very little improvement has been made on the classics in terms of enhancing the male image.
The Future – Men or insects?
There was a vibe at the end of the 90’s when it seemed there might be an exciting change of direction in men’s clothing. It felt as if there might be a shift towards shapes and fabrics inspired by the east. Softer, longer collarless shirts, layering, looser unstructured pants. But 9/11 quickly quashed that particular possibility and sent men’s fashion running for cover.
There has still been a leaning towards eastern influences, unfortunately , very half-hearted, with garments arriving in the shops completely out of context, with no supporting image to aspire to. An example of this is the dropped crotch jeans/trousers which look dreadful worn with traditional western shirts/t-shirts.
The super skinny jeans so popular now are another example of a garment which needs to worn with appropriate tops – not just slotted into an existing wardrobe. There have been some terrible sightings of short legged, wide hipped men wearing really tight figure hugging jeans with short tops, looking like some type of two legged insect.
While we wait for something new…
So if we are looking for a gentle change for you guys – let’s look at some basic guidelines:
Be aware that the male models you see advertising a look – they are picked, like the female equivalent because they are almost perfect.
If you know you have short legs try to cover the point where your legs join your body – but don’t overdo it – just cover!
Unless you are uniformly slender try to avoid the skinny pants look – generally speaking they don’t look good on any other figure type, unless accompanied by a longer, softer style of shirt (you will have to shop around – look online)
Make use of the well tested outfits – suits, jackets, classic jeans but look for more interesting fabric, prints, weaves, textures, colours – be adventurous!
Unless you are really well proportioned (look in a full length mirror, be honest, as a friend) avoid wearing a strong contrast in colour on your top and bottom halves.
Consider your colouring – eyes particularly.
If you have blue eyes – wearing blue close to your face will enhance your eyes, likewise if you have green or brown eyes choose shades of these colours.
Dresssense is essentially a guide to dressing for the figure we have right now. Some aspects of our shape + proportion we can do nothing to change – but, looking around, how many of us would clearly benefit from losing a few kilos?
We have all tried various regimes and diets suggested by manufacturers and magazines – some with a little success sometimes.
The truth is – we can all lose weight if we really want to – without paying a cent. We have to fully accept the responsibility ourselves.
So here it is:
The Last Piece of the Puzzle
Okay girls – we all know what we should and shouldn’t eat, we all know we have to exercise – we all know we should drink more water -
SO WHAT IS GOING WRONG?
WHY AREN’T WE LOSING THOSE EXTRA KILOS?
The answer is simple – we have developed bad habits which are sabotaging our efforts – EVERY DAY!
The Ten Deadly Habits
Imaginary “calorie cancellation”
Be honest with yourself – be aware of everything which passes your lips. There are no free calories – even that chip from someone else’s plate!
Learn to distinguish real hunger from ‘fancying something to eat’. Teach yourself to enjoy the sensation of hunger!
Portion size - we are generally smaller than men and therefore require fewer calories – keep this in mind when dishing up!
Breakfast - sorry, but it is essential.
It takes three weeks at most to learn to enjoy it. (Women who skip breakfast but on weight more readily – FACT.)
Concentrate - eat only when you can pay full attention to your food - no mindless chewing in front of the TV or cinema screen!
Eat slowly - give yourself time to enjoy every mouthful and chew well (and give your stomach time to send a message to your brain to tell it when you have had enough!)
Beware of cheese - very high in calories and as we know, very tasty – choose lean protein instead.
Eating out - the more we eat out the less nutritious our diet becomes – FACT.
Soft Drinks - they are all either full of sugar or chemicals, neither of which we need – train your palate to enjoy plain water and green tea or herbal teas, or pure fruit juice diluted with water.
Alcohol - Sorry – this is a habit most of us have come to enjoy – but if we value our health, looks and waistline, one drink a day is the only safe allowance – two for special occasions!
IT MAKES SENSE TO BECOME AWARE OF THESE SLY LITTLE HABITS -
If you have just one problem area, such as big hips, saddlebags or bust, it is a great technique to always use your dark tones on these areas and highlight your better features with lighter tones.
Those of us who are shorter, chunkier or have shorter legs than we would like would be well advised to avoid wearing strongly contrasting tones on our top and bottom halves. For example, don’t visually cut yourself in half by wearing a dark top and light trousers or light top and dark skirt. Any visual dissection like that will further reduce the length of your body (see illustration below).
By keeping your top and bottom halves tonally close you will give the illusion of a slimmer, taller you. This does not mean that both halves have to be the same colour – just tonally similar – as light or dark as each other.
This season there are cleverly designed dresses available which do the work for us, making use of tonal contrast to flatter any figure. It is a simple trick, not new, but very effective. The idea is that the central panel of the garment is in one colour, or print, while the side panels, framing it, are in a darker tone. If the contrast is too great, for example black and white, this technique can look too obvious, but Mark & Spencers have produced some very successful examples this season.
Play around with these ideas to visually sculpt a new you without the gym.
Useful if you need to visually widen your shoulders – good for hippy girls too, as it helps to balance shoulders and hips.
Therefore, people with very slim figures can wear all light coloured outfits with no problem – in fact those who feel they are too thin will find that light colours help to give them volume.
The rest of us know how wearing black outfits visibly ‘shrinks’ our outline – great for ‘feeling fat’ days! But some people are convinced that they can’t wear black for various reasons. I believe everyone can wear black to great effect with a little planning.
Redheads always look great in black – simply because they have enough natural colour above the neckline to carry it off effortlessly – warm hair & skin tone, green or blue eyes, possibly freckles & rosy cheeks. It is often a favourite colour of redheads as it is a perfect foil for their natural palette.
Those of us without the advantage of an interesting natural colour scheme don’t need to be left out:
Eyebrows – if you have indeterminate eyebrows get them tinted and shaped
Eye Make-up – a little more pronounced than you would normally wear – experiment with eye shadow colours.
A little blusher – always flattering to give your face definition.
Highlight brow bones & cheekbones.
Using these hints, you can wear black when you choose, looking glamorous and not dowdy (and a size smaller too!)
We all want to look our best, to find clothes which draw attention to our best features and away from our shortcomings. It is relatively easy with the short leg issue. The main thing to keep in mind is that it is best not to demonstrate too clearly where your legs meet your butt. Unfortunately sometimes that might mean avoiding some fashions which look great on the likes of Elle Macpherson! It does mean not allowing yourself to follow fashion blindly. It does not mean however, resorting to Kaftans.
Try to avoid:
But try these tricks:
We soon learn to recognise the shapes which suit us – the ones which make us feel good, more poised – we soon learn to shop with confidence!
Maybe you are sometimes disappointed when you get a promising purchase home, only to find that it doesn’t look as good on you as you thought it would (Hopefully not because you have been tricked by a flattering distorting mirror in the fitting room, which happened to me)
There are ways to identify the strengths & weaknesses of your figure.
Wearing just your undies stand well back from a full length mirror and look carefully at the proportion of your body.
Using the length of your head as a guide (top of head to chin) you can assess whether your proportions are ‘classic’ or vary in some way (as most of us do!). You can use the old artists’ technique of holding a pencil at arms length, close one eye, focus on the pencil and indicate with your thumb the size of your head.
Now in order to be considered ‘perfectly’ proportioned there should be four of that measurement between your feet and and your hips – any less than that you should take into consideration when choosing clothes – any more than that, your are very lucky, you don’t need any help!